Saurav Ojha, Co-Founder, Iberia Pharmaceuticals

Indian skincare has long borrowed its science from European and other Western countries. However, the formulations that work for their genetic makeup, skin type, weather, sun and pollution exposure is vastly different from Indian skin. In the Indian subcontinent we have our own unique challenges. Not only is our skin unique in terms of genetic makeup but also reacts differently to skincare actives.

Indian skin type, in scientific terms, generally falls under Fitzpatrick Skin Types III to V (dark to dark brown) skin, which basically means Indian skin can hyper pigment easily, and develop melanin concentration pockets. Given how different we are to our European counterparts, the sub-continent needs formulations that place the Indian skin first rather than an afterthought.

Pollution In Indian Cities

It is no secret that India holds the dubious distinction of housing some of the most polluted cities in the world. A study of air quality data by CREA ranked Gurgaon as 15 times more polluted than WHO recommended standards. Pollution not only stays in the air and impacts the air we breathe, but also impacts the skin. It leads to a weak skin barrier, dullness, as well as accelerated skin aging.

There are very few skincare brands and products in India that include pollution fighting ingredients as their primary ingredient. The formulas that are made in India must focus on incorporating such ingredients, rather than focus on superficial corrections only

The hyperpigmentation which happens due to pollution and subsequent barrier damage can be fixed by focusing on ceramides, and other micro-biome repair ingredients. Currently, the focus is on the western formulations of the 1900s. These older formulas used silicones for a smooth finish and were mapped out at a time when there was little focus on skin health. These ingredients were cheap, made for western skin, and focused very little on barrier repair.

Differences In Skin Aging

Melanin rich skin ages differently than Caucasian skin, yet we follow the Caucasian skincare formula which focuses on collagen breakdown and wrinkle prevention. The Indian skin needs barrier repair, hydration, and products that can fight glycation. This is a process where collagen in skin is damaged due to sugar molecules, resulting in dull, yellowing skin. This process of aging is more pronounced in melanin-rich skin and is often overlooked in mainstream anti-aging products, which rarely offer targeted glycation defense.

Also, sun damage, dark spots, sallow tired-looking skin, is common in the Indian subcontinent, which is a prominent sign of aging. Aging in white or Caucasian skin is defined more by wrinkles and sagging skin. While skin with melanin has its own issues, it does not wrinkle easily. So, for Indian skin, aging is not just about fighting wrinkles, but more about calming the skin, and removing skin damage.

Aging in melanin dense skin happens for reasons other than pollution as well. It also happens due to regular use of hard water, which contains calcium, magnesium, and other chemicals. The presence of these chemicals can cause oxidative stress, harm the skin barrier, and cause inflammation. Hard water often creeps up in the day-to-day usage since we cannot see it with the naked eye. We are still more aware about pollution because it finds its way in mainstream news, unlike hard water, the composition of which is relatively unknown.

Also, India has an inherently humid climate of tropical countries. Humidity can lead to an oily T-Zone, (area around the nose and forehead) which in turn causes black heads, open pores, and uneven texture, which can increase the visible signs of aging and serve as a biome for acne causing bacteria. Also, actives like Retinol, AHA, etc. which are popularly used abroad can cause sensitivity in Indian skin unless buffered properly. Needless to say, unhealthy skin is the one that ages faster, unless it catered for.

Indian skincare can no longer be an afterthought. It deserves its own research, investment in clinical trials, and formulation. There is a strong market gap which exists, and companies can use this as an opportunity to educate the customers about Indian skin type, as well as develop products that are made domestically for the domestic market.